Monster waves (Apr. 25/09 - Windang, Australia, mileage 208km)

A beautiful sunrise was underway when we got up this morning, as the bright orange sun lit up the waves and the sea spray crashing on the rocks out on the point. It didn't take long for our neighbours to start rummaging around, as they all had Hobie Cats on the beach that appeared to be getting last minute tune-ups before heading out to some sort of race or regatta. This kept Ken entertained for a long time (he used to have one) while I made pancakes for breakfast. Soon we were on our way again, detouring first through the bush to get to a spot called Pebbly Beach where we had read that kangaroos like to hang out on the beach. We did see nine of them in a field on the drive in, but none were at the beach since we were probably too late in the morning. It was a pretty beach though (as usual!), so we watched a few big blue rollers come in before moving on.


A while later, we pulled over onto a headland at the town of Gerroa, with the intention of getting a view down onto the long stretch of sand that is Seven Mile Beach. Instead, the view was north toward a sandstone shelf that met the Pacific about 20ft above the water. A similar dropoff must happen just offshore, because the waves that were rolling in were some of the biggest we had ever seen, and the massive crash and spray that happened when they hit the rock shelf was insane. Some body boarders were playing out on the rollers against the adjacent headland, but eventually two crazy surfer guys showed up and walked out onto the shelf below us, contemplating the waves. Waves typically have a pattern, coming in groups of large and small amplitudes, so it was funny to watch these guys wait for the monster waves to pass (they would be pummelled against the rocks if they were in there with them), then start picking their way down the ledge (barefoot!) so they could be in the water before the next big one comes, but chicken out half way down and come scrambling back up with a huge wave right behind them. They did this a few times before eventually getting in and paddling out into the ocean, looking for their sweet spot to catch a wave. As they paddled out, a pod of dolphins came leaping out of the water not far away from them, then turning to swim parallel to shore, apparently playing in the surf. After watching for a while, we went back to the van and made some lunch. Not long after, one of the surfers came grumbling back to his car with half his surfboard under one arm and half under his buddy's. Ooops. Those big waves do mean business!


A ways up the road is Kiama, a town where rugged headlands and crescent beaches alternate along the coast as far as you can see in both directions. The town's claim to fame is Blowhole Point, where a tunnel and skylight eroded in the rocks of the headland cause huge plumes of water to be launched in the air when big waves roll in. We saw a few good spews despite the calm seas (the biggest one went up about 50 feet) but the photos on display showed storm surges blowing columns of water up that were higher than the adjacent lighthouse built up on top of the point! Very impressive. We didn't last long watching though, as the never fail screams and oooohs and aaaahhhhs that the watching crowd would say for every single wave (even the small ones without a spray of water) was almost unbearable!

With the afternoon running out and only an hour or so of driving between us and Sydney, we picked a seaside campsite and set up for the final time. One last walk on the beach, one last dinner by headlamp, and one last sleep in our home on wheels before we give it back tomorrow and find ourselves on our own with our packs once again.