Friday, May 8, 2009

Over the top (May 5/09 - Waya Lailai Island, Yasawa Islands, Fiji)

Today we wanted to hike across to the other side of the island, so we took a local guy named Barry with us as a guide and hit the trail. Apparently nobody else wanted to go, so we ended up getting a private trip! The first part of the trail was the same steep uphill part from last night's hike, but we turned off below the Three Sisters to perch out on a rock for a view down to the resort and the surrounding islands. We could even see the tiny speck of white out on the reef way offshore that was the morning snorkeling trip out swimming with the reef sharks. Barry sliced up a papaya he had picked on the way up, so we had a snack and rested for a minute before continuing along the trail. It led up through sloping meadows of deep grass, past the "giant wobbling rock" (huge boulder balanced on an outcrop), and up to the ridge crest for a view down to the west side of the island. Since apparently nobody had hiked this path in 8 months until now, we lost the trail a couple times and had to bushwack a bit to find it again without walking through one of the many massive spider webs housing gigantic, nasty spiders. As we walked, Barry told us about his family and how his grandfather is the chief of the village here, about customs and school and a few more Fijian words to expand our vocabulary. He was even kind enough to invite us to his village in the highlands of Viti Levu when we leave later in the week. We might take him up on that offer!


After traversing the ridge crest, we began the descent down the north side of the island, with gorgeous views of Waya Island and the other Yasawas stretching out to the north. The golden green fields and stark black rocks perched on the hillsides made for a landscape that was postcard perfect for the South Pacific, with the jagged volcanic peaks, green ridges, and translucent blue sea around Waya Island. Eventually, we were close to the village, when we passed the water holding tank filling from springs uphill, as well as crops of cassava and banana growing on the slopes. Finally, we emerged in the little village, the one and only village, where we came for church on Sunday. Ladies were washing clothes and dishes in the shade, and we met a few people as we passed through the otherwise quiet row of houses. Barry introduced us to the sister of the resort's manager, who was eager to know how we were enjoying our stay on their island. Four adorable little boys were playing in a tarp beside the trail, all of which had sand absolutely covering their faces. Those big brown eyes and sandy cheeks were priceless! A forested trail passed a steep section of the shore before rejoining the village, where we passed pig pens with absolute beachfront property. Lucky pigs! After passing the church and the school we saw the other day, we plunked down on the beach and buried our hot toes in the sand - such a relief! Part of the deal was that a boat would bring lunch and snorkeling gear, so sure enough, the boat pulled up just minutes after we sat down. We had a picnic lunch on the sand and then walked over to the sand bridge connecting Waya and Waya Lailai islands, where we snorkeled and swam for a while before the boat took us back to the resort. It was a fun place to play in the water because waves were coming from both the east and west at the same time, making for lots of colliding waves and crazy currents! The water sure felt good (despite being very warm!) after sweating it out on the trail all morning. Between the gorgeous views and a glimpse into local life from Barry and seeing the village, it was a rewarding day that won't soon be forgotten.

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